The mountain trail (german “Höhenweg”)

The mountain trail is not only the oldest, marked trail in the Fichtel Mountains, but also the most interesting.
It runs, following the mountain horseshoe, over the most important mountain peaks of the Fichtelgebirge. During the ridge walk you will encounter the natural monuments that are so typical of this low mountain range: rock towers towering over the high forest and granite boulders in the summit areas.
The extremely varied nature of the route and the sights and significant landmarks of the Fichtelgebirge lying directly on the way make the Höhenweg an experience for the whole family.

Short description of the mountain trail:
Wunsiedel – Luisenburg – Great and Little Haberstein – Great Kösseine – Hohenbrand – Wurmloh – High Matze – Girgelhöhle – Prinzenfelsen – Silver House – Platte – FGV-accomodation Seehaus – Nußhardt – Schneeberg – Rudolfsattel – Three Brothers – Rudolfstein – Weißenstadt – Weißenstädter See – Great Waldstein – FGV accommodation house Waldsteinhaus – Kleiner Waldstein – Hallerstein – Schwarzenbach an der Saale

Mountains to be climbed

  • Great and Little Haberstein
  • Great Kösseine
  • High Matze
  • Platte
  • Nußhardt
  • Schneeberg
  • Rudolfstein
  • Great Waldstein
  • Little Waldstein

Total length: 50 km

Mountain trail in the fichtel mountains
Mountain trail in the fichtel mountains

Start in cloudy weather at 7:30 am at the Ice Lake in Wunsiedel

From there, head out of town towards Luisenburg. The name comes from the name of a mountain (formerly Lux- or Losburg, renamed in 1805 when visiting the Prussian Queen Luise) and there is not only Germany’s oldest natural stage, but also a unique rock labyrinth. Both highly recommended, but not my interest today …
The trail is marked by a white H on a red background.

Here, no description of the really beautiful hiking trail is to be given deliberately, but I would like to write about my attempt to master the mountain trail in a day’s stage (in the form of a kind of “performance test”) (on Sunday, 26.10.2014).
This has nothing more to do with “pleasure hiking”, but served only as a personal challenge.

Next destination is my local mountain, the Kösseine (939 m). During my tour, I set myself again and again intermediate goals and roughly calculate the times for it. Up to the Kösseine it is now about 3 km uphill. Expect almost 6 km / h “walking speed”, which should be in about half an hour at the summit.

Right on the way is the Little Haberstein. Such granite rock towers are significant for the Fichtelgebirge and also offer climbers the special experience.

The big Haberstein (848 m) is a few hundred meters away from the path, so I do not get to see it today …
At 8:45 clock I reach the summit of the Great Kösseine and must walk back a short part of the way back on the same route (the only time on the entire mountain trail) until the junction follows direction Hohenbrand / High Matze.
The autumnal foliage and these stretches are really great today, but I have to admit that the ascent (well known and “dreaded”) seems very hard to me. As it turned out later, probably the most strenuous climb: up to the Hohe Matze (813 m).
Shortly after half past ten o’clock I pass this, views back towards Kösseine are anyway due to the fog nil. Good 2 hours for the previous 11.5 km. Fits, lie in my Soll.

Leave Skull, Girgelhöhle and Prinzenfelsen on the left and march straight on and without a break to the next summit. I pass the Gasthaus Silberhaus and have to cross the B303. This crossing is always very dangerous for me (there is still no safe alternative!), But in these visibility conditions this project resembles a “suicide mission”, because when I stand in the middle of the lane, no other vehicle can come from above. .. luckily none of them appear.

Unfortunately, the plate (885 m) with its unique Graniblockmeer also offers no view, which, with a good view, reaches to Wunsiedel and the Czech Republic.

At 10:45 am I notice heavy legs for the first time and on the longer, only slightly ascending paths towards the lake house (922 m), it runs “out of round”. Nevertheless, I wait with my break to Nußhardt (972 m), the third highest elevation in the Fichtel Mountains.
Here I make my first break, in which I continue to strengthen and perform stretching exercises.

Highest summit of the Fichtel Mountains

At the highest mountain summit of the Fichtel Mountains and the whole of Franconia, the Schneeberg (1051 m), I arrive shortly before 12 noon. Meanwhile, 24 km are behind me and 4.5 h for this track are perfectly fine for me.
Down to Weißenstadt (630 m) I walk past various rock towers (Rudolfsattel, Drei Brüder and Rudolfstein). My time limit of one hour for this section (just under 6 km) I manage easily.

Fichtel mountains in winter - here the mountain trail with the Schneeberg

After more than 400 meters in descent, I circle around the Weißenstädter See in half, before I make my way towards the Great Waldstein (877 m).
My second snack I move until finally to the summit of Waldstein.

According to the directions, the Waldstein is exactly at kilometer 35. Then this signpost and the specified route to Schwarzenbach (12 km) should be wrong here … How else to get to 50 km total length?
When I’m far below the summit already near the Kleine Waldstein (829 m), is on a sign the same distance to Schwarzenbach (12 miles).
So far, I have never been to the Kleiner Waldstein, at least I can not remember it, but this rock tower seems to me the most impressive. Maybe because of its exposed location or unknown.

It goes downhill until I reach a wide forest road. Here I see the first time no further marking, from the feeling and the map, I would have to go straight, but the way is more like a “sanding path”, as a recognizable trail. Therefore, I walk to the right, in the hope that this way soon lead to the left and again a mark is recognizable.

Unfortunately, this is not the case and I am also on a wrong path. I do not want to turn back and run again, so I choose to move on.
When I hear cars, I know that I am near the marked road.

Once there, I see a man stopping in the forest parking lot. I ask him about the position on the map, knowing that I have strayed from the right path.

This is also confirmed to me, so he takes me to Benk mit.Ab here I no longer walk the trail, but on the Förmitzspeicher.
Although the path runs right along the lake, I ask locals for safety, as I get to the next village and finally to Schwarzenbach.
A man gives me sufficient directions, but as I follow his forest path and “shortcut”, I suddenly stand in the middle of a field.
In a series of rape drool I run to the street. But even there I read nothing on the signs of the village, but only Schwarzenbach (4 miles) and Hallerstein (3 miles). In order to get faster, I do light jogging, since I am now getting massive problems with fat feet since about km 40 and now at about 45 km.

It really hurts every step of the way.

Nevertheless, I want and will run to Schwarzenbach. I will not let that dissuade me anymore. But after another running insert, I see a town sign far away. If this is not Schwarzenbach, I will give up. This is for me after more than 9 hours now.

The closer I get, the bigger my plea … please let it be Schwarzenbach, B-I-T-T-E ….
… and actually my request was answered, it is the entrance sign of Schwarzenbach.

Shortly before 17 o’clock I reach the station of Schwarzenbach and have mastered the high-way with its 50 km in 9.5 hours.
My feet hurt, especially the toes and the lower back area is noticeable. But these hardships and current complaints are worth it. So far I have never hiked and the speed was hardly slower until the end.
The average is more than 5 km per hour and that in terms of length and altitude.
I’m a bit proud of having accomplished this feat. A personal challenge and a performance test to my limits. Ultimately, only one reason was crucial to success and perseverance: the absolute will to pull it off.

3 days later …

After having thick feet after the tour, pain in the Achilles tendon when walking and the lower back area is noticeable, I use only heat in the form of a hot water bottle for supportive “treatment”. Directly in the evening, I also feel slight pain in the knee area, but which are already gone on the day.
On the third day after, the pain in the left Achilles tendon remained (only when walking), also the lower back area is not yet the “old” again.
But you do not run every week over 50 km and it’s holidays … 😉

Mountain trail in Fichtel Mountains is a top hiking trail in germany

The mountain trail is one of the best hiking trails in germany and was voted many times from hiker all around the world into the Top 10 trails.